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WindowFarm Instructions 2013

NOTE: I have absolutely nothing to do with this company which was a failed Kickstarter in ~2012-2015. I ordered one of these in 2012 and it actually came but I never set it up. It sat in my basement until now, during the pandemic of 2020, when my wife and I decided to finally went to check it out. I had to extract these instructions from the Web Archive. Thanks much to them for it. There's also this window farms project that I've seen online that's not related but might be of some help.

We had problems with the bubbles not making it up all of the way with the water or bubbles coming out the bottom of the T connector. The Troubleshooting Guide helped with this. Specifically the section on Water back-flow.

I've done a large amount of formatting/editing but I've also removed some worthless content with links to dead webpages, references to the "community", etc..

First, Get To Know Your Windowfarm

Every good farmer knows how his tools work and how to fix them if something goes wrong. The first step is to learn how your Windowfarm works while putting it together...

Automated Watering

A timer periodically engages a pump to send nutrient-laden water from the reservoir through the bottom tube assembly and up the rigid tube to the top planter. The liquid trickles through plants' roots in each planter, bathing the plants' roots in optimum nutrition, and recapturing the liquid in the reservoir for recirculation.

Soil free nutrition

The Windowfarm planters take up less space than traditional soil filled pots, while producing healthier plants that can grow up to 10x faster. In soil, plants have to grow large root systems to find new water and nutrients in the soil. This is why you often see roots squished into the bottom of a pot -- they want to get out. Inside Windowfarm planters, your system delivers water and nutrients directly to plants roots, so more of the plants' energy can go to the top part of the plant that you harvest.

You get to have control over the nutrients that feed your food plants which will also affect the way your plants will taste.

Vertical Crops for Vertical Acres of Windows

The vertical orientation of your Windowfarm fits more plants by creating columns of "crops." By stacking plants on top of one another in your window space and sending liquid through a vertical circuit, you optimize available window light for growing more plants, without having to water individually.

Plumbing Assembly

Components:

Instructions

  1. Slip reservoir handle ends under the lip of the reservoir and pull up to lock into place.
  2. . Holding the reservoir cover in one hand, insert the connector to the top of the cover and into the oval shaped hole until it clicks into place. Make sure the larger hole is on the left side.
  3. Insert the large opaque tube of the reservoir tubing into the larger hole on the underside of the connector, inside the reservoir cover, as pictured. Then, insert the clear tube into the other smaller hole. Push both tubes up all the way into the connector until you feel them hit a clear stopping point.
  4. . Place the reservoir cover back over the reservoir taking care not to knock the connector out of place by bumping the reservoir tubing on the handle or sides of the reservoir.
  5. Before putting the reservoir on your wireframe, place the steel base-plate on the bottom of the wireframe, lining up the notch with the back spine. Make sure the window cutout on the reservoir cover is facing the front. This window cutout shows the min and max fill lines for your reservoir.
  6. Place reservoir and reservoir cover on the base plate at the base of the tower so that the window is facing forward and the hole on top of the reservoir cover is on the left side.

Assemble A Column

Components

Instructions

  1. Slip a gasket around a net cup and drop into each planter. Later, you will nestle your plants' roots in clay pellets inside this net cup.
  2. Starting at the top, place planters at on each of the four horizontal semi-circular wires. Note the dimple in the clip at the back of each planter. This dimple MUST ALWAYS be properly aligned on the wire-tower's spine. If it's not, liquid will not make it to the proper part of your plant's root system and you run the risk of dripping liquid onto your floor.
  3. Starting from the top, slide the rigid tube down through the two loops at the left of the wireframe.
  4. Direct the hook at the top of the rigid tube into the top planter. Every time you change your water, you will want to make sure the hook at the top is placed in the top planter.
  5. Slide the bottom of the rigid tube it into the larger connector hole on the top of the cover, until you feel it hit a rubber stop. Insert one end of the flexible tube into the smaller hole until you feel it hit the rubber stop.
  6. You will reverse and repeat this step every time you remove the reservoir to refill it. If at any point, you see that water is not making it to the top of your Windowfarm, the likely problem is that one of the tubes in the bottom tube assembly came loose. Remove cover and reconnect them securely.

Test Water Flow

  1. Carry the reservoir to your sink and fill with water to the max fill line. The reservoir holds 2 liters of water. Replace cover and place back onto the base-plate. Replace rigid tube and flexible tube into the cover.
  2. Attach the free end of the flexible tube to the outlet on the end of you pump.
  3. Plug pump into the wall to turn it on.
  4. Individual slugs of water should flow to the top of the rigid tube. Adjust the dial on the pump until water makes it all the way to the top. If water does not flow to the top, check all tube connections along the line, referring to the diagrams in Section 1.
  5. If the water is having trouble elevating and you notice bubbling in the reservoir instead, visit our Troubleshooting Guide.

Plan Pump & Timer Placement

The timer allows you to control frequency of pump watering.

Instructions

  1. Plug your pump into the timer and determine the distance cords will need to travel. Plan placement of your pump to create a drip loop. q
  2. If you need an extension cord, measure distance from the timer to the place you would like your pump to rest. The extension cord you choose will need to create a drip loop before the connection with the timer.

Excellent work, young Windowfarmer.

Set the Timer

  1. Flip the Timer cover open.
  2. Set Timer Master Switch to "ON" while setting the time intervals (each gray pin equals 15 minutes).
  3. When initially setting up your Windowfarm's irrigation, we recommend setting the timer to water for 15 minutes, every hour.
  4. Press in every 4th gray pin. Make sure the pins are pressed all the way down or the Timer won't work.
  5. Note: you may need to tweak the time interval setting depending on the plants you are growing.
  6. Turn the dial clockwise until arrow points to the correct local time.
  7. Flip the Timer cover to close the unit.
  8. Plug your windowfarm into the timer and then plug the timer into the outlet.
  9. Move the Master Switch from "ON" to "Timer".
  10. Observe the timer turning on your water for about an hour to make sure the settings are working properly. Without plants and growing media, the water flow can be high and can splash, which it will not do with plants. Thus we recommend that when testing the timer, you leave the air line tubing disconnected from your windowfarm and simply listen for the timer to turn on. Once you have determined that your timer is functioning properly, you can unplug the timer.

Test Water & Add Nutrients

Components:

Troubleshooting Guide

My plant looks funny all of the sudden. What am I doing wrong?

That's the spirit. With plants as with humans, a preventative diagnosis, goes a long way. Diagnose early and figure out what to correct for healthier, more delicious edibles. You will see that your plants are very resilient and will bounce back quickly with a little loving care. You don't need fancy sensor gadgets to tell you what to do.

Plants are sensors. They get droopy when the need water. They turn yellow when they are over watered. They get leggy when they are not getting enough light.

Where are my baby plants? I ordered a bundle and they did not come in the box with my Windowfarm.

We know how exciting it is to get your windowfarm and set it up. We know what to feels like to just want to plant our baby plants right away. Windowfarms ship from a factory. Baby plants ship directly from the farm where they grow up when you use your coupon to redeem them.

Since some new Windowfarmers don't have time to set up their farm right away or are about to go on vacation, we don't ship them automatically. It's kind of like when you send a minor on an airplane. The airline wants to know for sure someone who is looking out for their best interest is going to be there to take care of them as soon as they land.

For the health and sake of your baby plants, they ship separately, once you let us know you have their home is ready. Then, it's super fast as all baby plants ship via UPS second day air. You can redeem your plants at any time. Inside that silvery bag that came with your windowfarm, you will find a baby plant coupon code. Have your coupon handy and go here. Learn more about the factory, our partners, and how your Windowfarms are made sustainably in the USA and assembled by disabled veterans.

My plants have arrived, but I'm not set up yet.

It's ok, but let's get you started quickly. Your baby plants will be ok for a day or two if you keep the roots moist (not soaking wet) and place them upright in a window with good airflow. Rinse the roots gently in the sink. Then transfer the plants to a takeout container in which they can stand upright. Put just enough water at the bottom to cover the roots. Or mist them with a very clean spray bottle and fresh water.

Follow set up instructions as soon as possible to get your windowfarms columns up and working.

The water is evaporating rapidly out of the reservoirs in my very dry or high-heat window micro-climate.

Have no fear. Coco coir is here. Coco coir is an alternative growing media made from the hairs of coconuts that works well to retain more water and slow evaporation in dry window micro-climates. It can be used in combination with clay pellets to create a mix that both retains water and allows proper airflow to plants' roots. Coco coir is available for purchase in the Windowfarms store.

If you have coco fiber (for dry or high heat window micro-climates), alternate layers of coco coir with clay pellets or mix them together in a 50/50, then continue planting as you normally would. After you add coir, you will want to adjust your timer settings to turn the pump on less frequently. Some people even find that they only need to turn on timer 2-4 times a day.

Experiment with your conditions by observing your plants. Look for wilting and droopiness as a sign that plants are being under-watered. Look for yellowing of the leaves, browning of the roots, and the onset of mold around the stem base if the coir is retaining too much water. The coir should be lightly moist (neither dusty nor soaking) most of the day. If harsh direct sunlight is the problem, consider turning the timer on multiple times during the day and fewer times at night.

If you do not have coir yet, adjust the settings on the timer to get the least number of cycles per day without causing your plants to wilt between cycles. Order coir.

My plants are tumbling out of the net pots.

A larger plant with heavier leaves will be imbalanced, especially when it is not getting enough water and sometimes will pull its own root system out of the cup and tumble out of the front. You may need to replant and adjust the positioning of the root ball. Try adding more clay pellets and coco coir fiber which can help wedge it in place. You can also tie or trellis the stem of larger plants to the wire frame for additional support until the root system grows to gives the plant better balance.

Water back-flow

This is when the water is not ascending up the rigid tube and instead it bubbles in the reservoir. This issue occurs in about 6% of cases and arises because of dust that accumulates in shipping. The good news is that once you overcome the problem, we have only two cases of the problem ever coming back.

The objective is to clear out any invisible obstructions inside the tube and to let the water find its path. Here are the troubleshooting steps to resolve this issue:

  1. Please confirm your Windowfarm is set up in this orientation and all of the connections as tight as possible.
    • First, make sure that your reservoir is filled all the way up to the "max" line.
    • Notice the orientation for the main rigid tube, the airline going into the reservoir, and the bottom tube assembly orientation.
    • The rubber connector has one large opening and a small opening on both top and bottom ends. The connector should be pressed into the reservoir cover so that the smaller openings are located towards the center of the reservoir.
    • Make sure your vinyl airline tubing has no kinks between the pump and reservoir cover, and that all tubes are pressed completely into the rubber connector so there is no air escaping.
    • Note: The check-valve is incorrectly shown here outside of the reservoir. That part has since been reconfigured to be part of the bottom tube assembly and is thus inside the reservoir.
  2. Does your pump seem weak? Disconnect the airline tubing from the reservoir cover. Fill up a pint glass with water and submerge the end of the air tube completely. Turn the pump up all the way. The surface of the water should be very disrupted, like a pot of water at full boil. If this is not the case, your pump may be a lemon. If you are adventurous, you can try taking your pump apart to see if the internal air-bladder may have come unseated in shipping.
  3. While the pump is running and everything is connected, try pressing down on the top of the reservoir cover a few times and releasing, which in turn presses the bottom of the bottom tube assembly against the floor of the reservoir. Sometimes this helps get the siphon and capillary action started that drives the airlift pump. Then, the water cleans away tiny debris in the tube and the problem is often resolved.
  4. Try turning the pump setting back down to low, which allows the bubbles to form in the tube more slowly. Try pressing down on the reservoir cover again to start the siphon. Try this again at a few different pump settings.
  5. Disconnect your rigid tube and pull it out from the top. Disconnect the bottom tube assembly from the reservoir cover. Run water through both of them in the sink or shower to clean out any additional dust that may have accumulated in shipping. Try cleaning the rigid tube with the bead chain provided.
  6. If this does not, work, we need to face the possibility that you may have a faulty part. There may be a tiny piece of "flash," additional plastic left over from the manufacturing process that is obstructing bubble formation.

DIY Valve Hacking

We greatly appreciate your If you are anxious to get started and would prefer to try some fun hacker DIY repair techniques at home, we welcome the enthusiasm, elbow grease, and your hacker spirit. Please try the following DIY techniques and please send an email to support@windowfarms.com to tell us which method worked for you! If you choose to try to resolve the issue yourself, we salute your hacker spirit.

In all cases, the objective is to partially (not entirely) block air bubbles' route out through the bottom and to force them to overcome whatever obstacle is preventing their natural inclination to rise up through the tube above. Air is less dense than water, so the bubbles "would prefer" to rise up the tube if it weren't for this pesky unseen obstruction. You have now tried the easier techniques to clear the obstruction, the other route is to create more of an obstruction below by reducing the dimensions of the opening at the bottom.

Turn off the pump and disconnect all the tubes from the reservoir cover. Remove the reservoir cover, so you can access the reservoir tube, and disconnect it.

Technique #1 The tube tail

Cut off a 4 inch section of airline tubing from the tubing provided. Insert into the end of your t-valve. When everything is back in place inside the reservoir, this piece will curl up off the floor and create a longer resistance filled travel path for any bubbles intent on escape. However, it will also make your bottom tube assembly too tall to fit in the reservoir.

So, you need to trim the top of the milky top tube of the bottom tube assembly. Use an extremely sharp cutting tool like an exacto blade or box-cutter to get a clean cut (DON'T CUT YOURSELF!) and trim off approximately 1 cm from the top of the tube. Make sure the cut is at a right angle to the tube. A diagonal cut will cause the tube to sit incorrectly in the connector.

Technique #2 Crimping the t-valve

Gather a strong crimping tool of some kind: an adjustable pliers, a strong clamp, a big binder clip, or even better, a vice grip.

Next, warm the very bottom of the black t-valve by placing the tip all the way up to the T in boiling water or lighting a match under it. (Hold the t-valve in the heat for a few seconds. (DON'T BURN YOURSELF!) Make sure the plastic is evenly heated and pliable. Next, clamp down on the melted opening as hard as you can right below the T-junction. You want to make the opening as flat and narrow as possible below the incoming bubbles. The plastic has a tendency to rebound to its normal shape, so, ideally, leave it in the crimping device over night. This will help direct the air flow upward rather than out into the reservoir, allowing the water to be elevated up the tube. Don't be afraid to crimp down tightly but the objective is not to close off the tube completely, as water still needs to be able to pass through. The material is flexible enough that you will not damage nor break the valve but do not hesitate to really deform it.

In the morning, remove your clamp. If the melted plastic has sealed over the T-valve opening, cut a small amount off with an exacto blade or some sharp scissors to re-open it slightly. You should notice that the opening is much flatter and narrower than it was originally.

Next, put your Windowfarm back together. If you're still finding bubbling in the reservoir, let's call it quits. We would greatly appreciate your sending the part back to us via our returned self-addressed stamped mailer as this will help us learn what went wrong with your part and will spare another windowfarmer some heartbreak.

Pat yourself on the back because YOU ARE AWESOME!

Add Plants

First, let's give your baby plants some air quick. Open the box and the plastic packaging to give your baby plants some air. They just went on a long journey. They would love it if you got them tucked into their new home as quickly as possible.

Prune your baby plants

Use very sharp scissors to cut away any leaves and branches that were damaged in shipping or that look weak. Cut as close to the base of the plant as possible. Do not leave decaying plant leaves near the healthy plants and throw away. This is also a routine care activity. Always try to identify weak leaves and branches quickly and trim with sharp scissors, like a careful surgeon's best work!

Give them a little water

Dip each plant's root system carefully into a cup of cool tap water and place them back in the plastic bag in the box until you are ready to plant.

Prepare to transplant into your working Windowfarm

  1. In the kitchen or near a sink, gather your clay pellets, net cups, coco fiber (optional), gaskets, and baby plants.
  2. Rinse clay pellets in a strainer to remove dust.
  3. If you have coco coir (shredded coconut hair that looks a bit like soil), moisten it by adding about a teaspoon of water.

Transfer baby plants to net cups

  1. Add a layer of clay pellets to the bottom of a net cup and pile a few more up on one side to form a "ramp" going up one side of the net cup.
  2. If you have coir, add a layer of coir on top.
  3. Lay one or two baby plants on top of the ramp, leaning the leaves out one side while making sure that the roots touch or bunch up on the opposite side of the net cup. Position the roots ball so that it is not sticking out of the top of the net cup.
  4. The "ramp" is important. It helps ensure that the roots are under the drip stream.
  5. Add clay pellets and coco fiber until you bury the root ball completely
  6. Give the whole planted net cup a good rinse and then add the gasket if you have not already.
  7. Gently drop the net cup into a planter. Make sure the leaves are cascading out toward the front and the roots are piled up at the back, under the drip stream.

Test Water & Add Nutrients

Components:

Get a Baseline reading for Your Water Supply

What's the starting pH of your tap water? Tap water varies from city to city. Dip a pH test strip in your tap water before adding nutrients. Swirl it for ten seconds. Then, quickly compare the color to the reference strip.

Record this baseline reading as you may want to refer to it later. Balanced water pH is about 7. Notice if your water varies dramatically from 7. Tap water conditions vary depending on different municipalities supplies. Some cities add a lot of chlorine or other chemicals. You may want to do a little online research about your water supply to find out if it tends to have high concentrations of chlorine, heavy metals, or other contaminants that will impact your plants. If you are concerned, consider using distilled water for your Windowfarm.

Maintenance

Adding Water

Fill the reservoir with enough water to reach the max fill line on the reservoir. Water will evaporate from your system and will need replacement. Expect to top-off the system 2-3 times per week. However, conditions will vary effecting the rate at which more water is needed. Summer seasons and dry environments will require more frequent watering.

Adjusting the Pump

Use the dial on the air pump to adjust the flow rate of the water through your system. The flow should be just enough to create a steady drip of water through the system even when the water supply goes a few inches below the min fill line. A flow that is too high will create unnecessary power consumption and noise. A flow that is too little will not deliver liquid to the top planter.

Flushing the system

Start by flushing twice per week and adjust the frequency based on your plants' response. Periodically, you may find that plants respond well to a cleansing period, where you only run water or water with a salt remover (see store) through roots.

Setting the Timers

At first, set the timer on a 15 minute interval as pictured. Adjust as you observe plant response. Consult the timer's package if you need more detailed directions on setting the timer.

Cleaning tubes

The tubes and the reservoir will slowly accumulate algae growth on the inner walls. While not harmful to the plants, it does not look particularly attractive. To clean, use the provided bead chain cleaner. We left it unassembled so you can see how it works and replace twine over time.

  1. Loop the cotton cord back and forth in 3inch lengths in your hand. Tie it with a double knot around the center of the 3 inch looped cotton cord bundle.
  2. Thread one end of the 4inch cotton cord piece through the center hole of a bead chain end coupler.
  3. You have created a small mop head. Snap the mop head assembly to one end of the 30inch bead chain.
  4. You now have a cleaning device for your water tubes.

Once every couple of months clean tubes while they are still wet. Remove tube from the system. Feed the beaded end of the chain down the tube, and pull-through the far end. The mop head will drag algae with it. Rinse the mop head with water after each pull and repeat as many times as is needed.

Caring For Your Plants

Observe and Troubleshoot

Like any farmer, your first crop will probably run into a few issues. This is not failure, it's a process of trial-and-error learning about how you will need to customize for your specific conditions. Odds are that one or more plants will not do well right away. Don't be afraid to lose a few plants, just make sure to turn their loss into a valuable insight. Be a keen observer and be ready to troubleshoot exactly what is going wrong. By observing early crops, you learn both about your micro-climate and about your plants.

The path to a green thumb is to learn from failures and correct. Watch for any signs of wilting, leaf discoloration or other plant issues over the next few days. Consult the troubleshooting guide and make corrections as needed.

Trimming Unhealthy Tissues

Your plant will have a healthier longer life, if you trim away dead leaves, branches, and even dying roots periodically.

IMPORTANT: Always use a very sharp pair of scissors that you have dipped in boiling water when trimming plants and harvesting. Intentional cuts to a plant are like surgery. Prevent infections and make sure your cuts are clean.

Trellising plants

As plants grow taller, use plant tape or fishing wire secured to the tower. You can tie fishing line between two alligator clips that can grab on to just about anything to create an adjustable support structure.

Pollinating Flowers

Using a small paint brush, mimic a bee's action and dust the pollen from one flower to the other, addressing each flower on the plant. If possible, try to cross pollinate with another plant of the same species.

Harvesting

Harvest frequently, even daily. Cut leaves on the outside of the plant, not from the core. Cut leaves with very sharp scissors and cut as close to the base as possible. Prune away weak or dying leaves regularly.

Get to Know Your Baby Plants

Here are the basics. When you are ready to learn more, visit the Windowfarmer's Almanac to go in depth and find other Windowfarmers growing the same plants.

Baby Plant Mix 1

"Cool" Baby Plant Mix

"Hot" Baby Plant Mix

End of Life

When you are finished with your windowfarm--hopefully years from now--don't throw it into a landfill. It is designed to be recycled. The plastic parts are made of #5 PP and #4 PE that can be recycled.

That's it. You know all there is to know about your windowfarm system. Time to start growing.

NOTE: I have absolutely nothing to do with this company which was a failed Kickstarter in ~2012-2015. I've extracted these instructions from the Web Archive. Thanks much to them for it.

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This work is licensed by Gray Watson under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 License.

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